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Sharpening skis


OarSki

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I am getting more and more interested in tuning my own skis. I always wax, but have been nervous about sharpening the edges, and possibly doing irreversable damage to the skiis. So, here's my question:

 

I have found out that, for my skis, I should sharpen at a "1 deg base & 3 deg bevel". What tools/guides or other gizmos should I get to do this? Any recomendations (without making me go bankrupt)?

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I am getting more and more interested in tuning my own skis.  I always wax, but have been nervous about sharpening the edges, and possibly doing irreversable damage to the skiis.  So, here's my question:

 

I have found out that, for my skis, I should sharpen at a "1 deg base & 3 deg bevel".  What tools/guides or other gizmos should I get to do this?  Any recomendations (without making me go bankrupt)?

First off, you need vise grips to hold your skis tightly in place. You can start out simple, with a travel vice that just clamps the front and rear of the ski. For tuning, you'll need a base edge guide for 1 degree bevel and an 8" mill file. Then, you'll need a side edger for the 3 degree bevel. You can use the same file.

I highly recommend the "Beast" for base edges and "Side of Beast (standard model)" for side edges.

You can buy them at http://www.the-raceplace.com

Spend $20 for the tuning video. It gives a great step-by-step visual guide.

You may need a sidewall planer if your topsheet sidewall needs to be cut away from the metal edge. Some skis need them, some don't.

It's good to have a gummi stone for deburring and a "medium" diamond file to polish the edges.

 

Toko, Swix, FK, and a bunch of other companies make edge tuning gear. I just found that the Beast is more sturdy than holding a file in a spring clamp, while not as bulky as a variable sharpener. They all work fine, though.

 

If you're careful, you won't permanently damage your skis by not being a great tuner. It takes some practice. Always whipe your bases clean before dragging the file guide down it, so you don't embed shavings. I recommend using a black magic marker on your edge before sharpening. Then you just shave that away. That way, you know when you've taken off enough material and that you've gotten your entire base.

 

Once you get the hang of it, you'll never use a shop again.

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