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Mounting Atomic Race Bindings


AtomicSkier

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I found this article last year but forgot to post it here. For those who want to mount their bindings at their own risk, but don't have a predrilled plate, this article tells you how to do everything. Again, this is at your own risk not only can you increase your chances of getting hurt by not mounting them correctly, but you can damage your skis by drilling to far. Ski Binding Mounting Article

 

Check out the site, its pretty cool and helpful as well.

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Well I mounted one binding to one ski. I have a question anybody with atomic bindings will know. I locked the varizone setting into just one setting. Is there anyway I can change the setting without having to remove anything? If I have to remove something I will just set it in the position I want now than later. I just put it in one setting because it took me awhile to get it in a positon. But once I figured it out it was simple. Basically what I mean is can I go from the extreme position to the all around position without removing anything or must I remove the plastic cover(connects heel and toe piece holes with a screw).

 

When the question is answered I will mount the other binding. Its really simple acutally and if I can do it anybody can. It took me about a half hour to mount the first binding and thats because I never did it before. The second binding should be finished in about 10 mins or less.

 

Just one more question, whats with this thing on the toe piece, it says "yellow active" "red locked"? Is it supposed to light up when the boot is in? Because if it is it didn't do it for me.

 

I just set the DIN on the lowest setting. When they are done mounted I will just take them to a shop to have them check them like I do with all my skis in the beginning of the season.

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Well I mounted one binding to one ski. I have a question anybody with atomic bindings will know. I locked the varizone setting into just one setting. Is there anyway I can change the setting without having to remove anything? If I have to remove something I will just set it in the position I want now than later. I just put it in one setting because it took me awhile to get it in a positon. But once I figured it out it was simple. Basically what I mean is can I go from the extreme position to the all around position without removing anything or must I remove the plastic cover(connects heel and toe piece holes with a screw).

 

dude, lol, that's what the red tab is for in front of the binding, it slides the WHOLE ASSEMBLY forwards and backwards. Push it to the right, all the way, and move the binding. It may require alot of force cause it's new, but it'll loosen up once the grease gets all in the tracks.

 

Just one more question, whats with this thing on the toe piece, it says "yellow active" "red locked"? Is it supposed to light up when the boot is in? Because if it is it didn't do it for me.

 

No, it's the backwards release. I keep mine locked, as most people do.

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It allows you to move the toe piece in different positons on the track for different skiing conditions. For example the race 614 has 5 settings. They are extreme, all round, and carve with half way increments between extreme and all round. Jeff can explain it better hes the expert.

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Skimom, look at Step 10, you can see the 5 lines. By moving the tab to the right in the front of the binding, you can slide the whole assembly forwards/backwards on the track. It allows for you to repoisiton your weight more forward on the ski to turn quicker, or backwards for a more stable, less turny ski. Sure it only moves about 1.5 inches, but moving 185 lbs 1.5 inches forwards makes a HUGE difference. My GS:9s turn like slalom skis in their forward position, while in the back position they track at highspeeds like no other. Ski999 witnessed first hand the difference, all day I had it all the way back, ripping big turns, then for two runs I slid it forward, and making tight turns down a headwall at montage, i spilled cause they were turning so quickly. It's a good workout, since they turn so much quicker, it's a great innovation, like 5 skis in one. I bet I could almost use my GS:9s in an SL course.

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Just mounted my other binding. Took only 8 mins to do it. So I figure the next time I do it, it will take 20 mins or less. I will try and take pics later and post them in my album.

 

BTW, thanks for the help Jeff. I really appreciatted it. For anyone else who needs to mount atomic bindings, look no further this guide is COMPLETELY accurate and I had no problems what so ever mounting them myself/setting the DIN. I think this should be pinned for others to look at down the road...

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  • 5 years later...

Thank you so much for that great guide! Just a quick thing I might add that I found out while adjusting my bindings: if the binding won't go long enough for your boot you have to turn the increment screw on the back (the one mentioned in step thirteen) and that will lengthen the whole system. I got scared at first because my boots are size 13 (US) so thats about 400 mm and the bindings were nowhere near long enough.

Anyway, thanks!

-Nick

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Thank you so much for that great guide! Just a quick thing I might add that I found out while adjusting my bindings: if the binding won't go long enough for your boot you have to turn the increment screw on the back (the one mentioned in step thirteen) and that will lengthen the whole system. I got scared at first because my boots are size 13 (US) so thats about 400 mm and the bindings were nowhere near long enough.

Anyway, thanks!

-Nick

 

Old topic is old...

 

 

..over 5 years old.

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why do you say that? I had no issues with my Neox binders on my LT 11s..

 

They have some real funny mechanics, lots of shitty plastic in an attempt to make forward pressure easier to adjust. Heavy with poor retention.

 

The thing that really pisses me off is that atomic locks you into their shitty bindings with the patterns and offers no universal plate and then the neox line never worked with the race room skis.

 

They are your skis you bought them you should be able to put 3pin leathers or some horrible franken binding you created in your basement on them. What if I want to mount them flat instead of 12" of completely useless plastic or god forbid tele. Integrated bindings suck particularly ones that have shitty elasticity and are unusually heavy.

 

 

After a broken femur and a dislocated shoulder...I'll only bring them out to race, or to ski opening day at BB.

 

Smart man, you did a good job btw on the mount, you would be amazed how few people know how to mount bindings.

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finny shit... i have a pair of neox's on my sl skis (came mounted on a set of used racetigers :blink: ) never had any issues with 'em but they look like toys - transformers or something

 

The Neox's are a slightly better design, and made by Tyrolia, but the Race binders scare me. I have 2 new pairs sitting in my bedroom, and 2 pairs of Atomic WC racestock race skis in the basement that barely see the light of day. The one pair is brand new, 186cm, 27m worldcup GS skis that have 3 runs on them. After my injuries, I'm just afraid, as much as I love the way they ski.

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curious, why'd you ride 'em up at boulder vs. the pe's?

 

Because it's so flat, I want maximum turn radius at the slower speeds so I can actually make turns. And, there is no chance of falling on Freedom :rofl As soon as BB trail opened for the weekend, I switched to my brand new 184cm Volkl Mantra's with PX15s (a binding that I will now forever ski).

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Because it's so flat, I want maximum turn radius at the slower speeds so I can actually make turns. And, there is no chance of falling on Freedom :rofl As soon as BB trail opened for the weekend, I switched to my brand new 184cm Volkl Mantra's with PX15s (a binding that I will now forever ski).

 

it's about time you realized how awesome Look bindings are. I'm 100% sold on pivots for my park skis and the PX race heel for my freeride stuff.

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