train36 Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 (edited) I have three or four boards that I would like to get tuned before the season. Which place can I go to and not get my stuff ruined. I went to langhorne once to get edge work done on another board and it never rode the same , seemed like the edge was uneven when they finished with it. I want to get base bevel added to two boards , one of them being brand new. I like a 2.5 or 3 base bevel on my park and all mountain boards so I can still keep an edge and not hang up on rails. I was thinking maybe Bear Creek since I have to go up there to get my pass anyways. I would prefer something close to Philly so I don't have to go far , but if I have to I will. Also I coat my boards with a layer of wax that I leave unscraped for the offseason to keep stuff from getting into the base. Do I have to scrape the wax off or do you think they could just take it off there before the wax it again and tune it. Sorry for the long post and thanks for the replies. Edited September 29, 2007 by train36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Sounds like you know what you are doing. Why not just spend the money and get an edge tool to do it yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
train36 Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Sounds like you know what you are doing. Why not just spend the money and get an edge tool to do it yourself? I could probably do it myself but when it comes to base bevel I think it would be kind of tricky and don't want to take a chance on a brand new board. I have an edge tuner for the side edge and normally wax and repair stuff myself. For the base edge I would need vices and a table. I can wax and sharpen the side edges without having to do this. I eventually will be buying a setup like this to do all my tuning. Maybe I will by a base edge tool and mess with it on my old board but don't want to take a chance on my new one. Ant good suggestions for such a tool , and tuning table/vices? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtomicSkier Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Trust me, you can do a better job then any shop person. They'll just run it through a machine, which isn't near as precise as you can be by hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidude Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Out of your way, and not open till the season, but I still say that Marc up at Camelback is the best guy anywhere around PA. He can do just about anything for skis/boards. Then again, for a tune, its probably not as important... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
train36 Posted September 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Okay, it looks I need to get some tools then. Any advice on workbenches and vices , also I need to get a base edge tool, any ideas? I found some online but most only go up to 2 degrees. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skidude Posted September 29, 2007 Report Share Posted September 29, 2007 Okay, it looks I need to get some tools then. Any advice on workbenches and vices , also I need to get a base edge tool, any ideas? I found some online but most only go up to 2 degrees. Do you have a table or counter top you could use that you could put vices around? The biggest problem I have had is using tables/benches that aren't too solid, and they wobble while your trying to work. A pain in the ass. Vices- plan on dropping $100 for a decent pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtomicSkier Posted September 30, 2007 Report Share Posted September 30, 2007 www.reliableracing.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 i agree with everything said above, just do the tune yourself. it's easier, cheaper, and faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philpug Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Trust me, you can do a better job then any shop person. They'll just run it through a machine, which isn't near as precise as you can be by hand. C'mon, are you serious? Those are quite the blanket statements You are saying someone who has absolutely no experience tuning a ski can do a better job than someone who has been trained and has access to the best tools available. If you take Atomicmans advise, I suggest you start on his skis. After 20 years of tuning myself and having my own Montana wet belt sander to do the grunt work. I started dropping off my skis at Northern Ski Works for the right bevels. i do my own waxing, but a $100K machine run by the best people does one helluva job. Don't get me wrong, there are hacks out there, but a quality shop is worth the $30-40.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ski Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 C'mon, are you serious? Those are quite the blanket statements You are saying someone who has absolutely no experience tuning a ski can do a better job than someone who has been trained and has access to the best tools available. If you take Atomicmans advise, I suggest you start on his skis. After 20 years of tuning myself and having my own Montana wet belt sander to do the grunt work. I started dropping off my skis at Northern Ski Works for the right bevels. i do my own waxing, but a $100K machine run by the best people does one helluva job. Don't get me wrong, there are hacks out there, but a quality shop is worth the $30-40.00. Well, we all start somewhere. But tuning isn't rocket science and if you use a magic marker on the edge so you can gauge how much material you are removing, you can't fuck up that badly. If you follow directions, hand tuning is no harder than doing a paint by number picture. If you apply light pressure and use moderate strokes, then how can anyone go wrong if they have the right tool? It's not like fixing a carb or taking apart an engine; it's just polishing metal. My experience has been that I've never seen a machine come close to a good hand tune. The fact that a machine costs so much just means that the cost is passed on to skiers. Why the heck should it cost $40 to swipe a ski through a machine? Answer: the machine costs $100k. Phil, I'm not trying to bust on you and most people do prefer the convenience of dropping off their gear, but a good tune lasts only a day or two in our conditions, so if you want your gear performing at its maximum potential and ski 100 days, then, well, you can do the math. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philpug Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 No worries about busting on me, I am just trying to protect someone from ruining skis because of inexperience and being told from people who have no vested interest in his gear saying sure...go ahead. Between a vice, quality files, bevel shims, diamond stones, expect to put out $200.00-250.00 before you even learn how to use them. Is ti rocket science? no, but it is still a craft. You can't get more than 1-2 days out of a tune? I know the ice in the Pocono's is hard, I didn't realize that it was harder that steel . I for one am not light on my skis and don't care if I hit rocks in the woods of Mad River Glen or in the woods at Killington (these are ski areas in Vermont for some of you ). I will drop my skis off for a good machine tune every 20 days but I will debur regularly. I do wax every other day on hte snow, but I don't think thats what we are talking about. But there is no way that someone who has absolutely no or even minimal training can get a bevel to a consistant .5 degree for a 170-180cm ski. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philpug Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 No worries about busting on me, I am just trying to protect someone from ruining skis because of inexperience and being told from people who have no vested interest in his gear saying sure...go ahead. Between a vice, quality files, bevel shims, diamond stones, expect to put out $200.00-250.00 before you even learn how to use them. Is ti rocket science? no, but it is still a craft. You can't get more than 1-2 days out of a tune? I know the ice in the Pocono's is hard, I didn't realize that it was harder that steel . I for one am not light on my skis and don't care if I hit rocks in the woods of Mad River Glen or in the woods at Killington (these are ski areas in Vermont for some of you ). I will drop my skis off for a good machine tune every 20 days but I will debur regularly. I do wax every other day on hte snow, but I don't think thats what we are talking about. But there is no way that someone who has absolutely no or even minimal training can get a bevel to a consistant .5 degree for a 170-180cm ski. LOL< EDIT here.. He is talking a snowboard and not skis? Go for it man, it won't matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snorovr Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 (edited) Very pleased with the work of Sports Chalet. Forget the guys name, but he is the husband of Kristen who runs the place. Edited October 1, 2007 by youngstunta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtomicSkier Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 ou can't get more than 1-2 days out of a tune? I know the ice in the Pocono's is hard, I didn't realize that it was harder that steel . I for one am not light on my skis and don't care if I hit rocks in the woods of Mad River Glen or in the woods at Killington (these are ski areas in Vermont for some of you ). I will drop my skis off for a good machine tune every 20 days but I will debur regularly. I do wax every other day on hte snow, but I don't think thats what we are talking about. But there is no way that someone who has absolutely no or even minimal training can get a bevel to a consistant .5 degree for a 170-180cm ski. First of all, every 20 days?! Are you kidding me?! I hate when I don't have time to tune them daily. My skis get a fresh coat and a polish every night. If you have the tools, why not make skiing as enjoyable as possible? When 99% of people are sliding around on the hardpack, I'm having the time of my life. Maybe that's why you hate the poconos so much, because you only tune once every 20 days. As for a consistent base bevel. Get a base of beast, or whatever the "side of beast" equivilent is. It's fool proof, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snorovr Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 the time of my life. the poconos Ummmmmm........ Slaying your credibility. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ski Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 No worries about busting on me, I am just trying to protect someone from ruining skis because of inexperience and being told from people who have no vested interest in his gear saying sure...go ahead. Between a vice, quality files, bevel shims, diamond stones, expect to put out $200.00-250.00 before you even learn how to use them. Is ti rocket science? no, but it is still a craft. You can't get more than 1-2 days out of a tune? I know the ice in the Pocono's is hard, I didn't realize that it was harder that steel . I for one am not light on my skis and don't care if I hit rocks in the woods of Mad River Glen or in the woods at Killington (these are ski areas in Vermont for some of you ). I will drop my skis off for a good machine tune every 20 days but I will debur regularly. I do wax every other day on hte snow, but I don't think thats what we are talking about. But there is no way that someone who has absolutely no or even minimal training can get a bevel to a consistant .5 degree for a 170-180cm ski. LOL< EDIT here.. He is talking a snowboard and not skis? Go for it man, it won't matter Phil, Train is a PASR member and came to us with a question, so we do have a vested interest in helping him. Just to be clear, even racers really only need to set their bases once a season. But to go more than a day or two without touching up your side edges means you aren't getting the maximum quality out of your skis. Just a quick polish with a diamond and not taking off too much material. And just deburr when you feel a burr... But who the heck can't run a Base Beast along an edge? I can't think of something easier to do...it's easier than waxing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ski Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Ummmmmm........ Slaying your credibility. Heheheheh... But I'd have killed to have been able to take a few runs in the Poconos tonight... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philpug Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 First of all, every 20 days?! Are you kidding me?! I hate when I don't have time to tune them daily. My skis get a fresh coat and a polish every night. If you have the tools, why not make skiing as enjoyable as possible? When 99% of people are sliding around on the hardpack, I'm having the time of my life. Maybe that's why you hate the poconos so much, because you only tune once every 20 days. As for a consistent base bevel. Get a base of beast, or whatever the "side of beast" equivilent is. It's fool proof, really. I will debur, polish and wax (almost) every night after a day on the snow..it is very relaxing, plus I like the smell of Ptex and wax with my scotch. I will get a serious grind after 20 days or so..thats if I even keep a ski that long . But a good machine tune from NSW gets my skis back to factory specs. As far as hating the Poc's, the two subjects are mutually exclusive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtomicSkier Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 holy crap...you grind every 20 days?!?! No wonder why you change skis so often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ski Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 I will get a serious grind after 20 days or so.. Holy cow...that's just when they'll start getting fast again. You Epic people do crazy stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtomicSkier Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 I believe Atomics come from the factory with some camber in the tip and tail, and grinding them takes it out of the base. And yea, they aren't back up to speed until after 10 waxes, a few days on the snow, and several more waxes. That's a crapload of work every 20 days. In fact, you're better off grinding them, if you must, once a season, but even then, the work required to bring skis back up to speed is immense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philpug Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Well, we all start somewhere. But tuning isn't rocket science and if you use a magic marker on the edge so you can gauge how much material you are removing, you can't fuck up that badly. If you follow directions, hand tuning is no harder than doing a paint by number picture. If you apply light pressure and use moderate strokes, then how can anyone go wrong if they have the right tool? It's not like fixing a carb or taking apart an engine; it's just polishing metal. My experience has been that I've never seen a machine come close to a good hand tune. The fact that a machine costs so much just means that the cost is passed on to skiers. Why the heck should it cost $40 to swipe a ski through a machine? Answer: the machine costs $100k. Phil, I'm not trying to bust on you and most people do prefer the convenience of dropping off their gear, but a good tune lasts only a day or two in our conditions, so if you want your gear performing at its maximum potential and ski 100 days, then, well, you can do the math. holy crap...you grind every 20 days?!?! No wonder why you change skis so often. Holy cow...that's just when they'll start getting fast again. You Epic people do crazy stuff. Which is it? A ski skied in the Pocono's lasts only 1-2 days? And I am getting grief because I will send mine to a machine every 20 days or so? The machine gives the foundation for a good tune. I think we need some clarification here. A high end tuning machine will take very little of the bases and get the edges to specified bevels with a diamond stone vs. shaving off with files. I will wax and debur pretty much after every day on the snow. I will use a diamond vs. file. Waxing is done after everyday on snow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtomicSkier Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Phil, I guess since you're not a racer, you don't need "fast" skis, but stone grinding kills any type of "speed" out of a ski. Way too many Ptex hairs that require wax after wax and scrape after scrape to get rid of them after a stone grind. I don't ski on my fast skis frequently enough to require them to be stone ground, which is one of the reasons I don't ski on them frequently, is because they're "fast" skis. If I had to grind my skis every 20 days, I'd NEVER get to ski on them, as it would take way too long to get them fast again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philpug Posted October 2, 2007 Report Share Posted October 2, 2007 Phil, I guess since you're not a racer, you don't need "fast" skis, but stone grinding kills any type of "speed" out of a ski. Way too many Ptex hairs that require wax after wax and scrape after scrape to get rid of them after a stone grind. I don't ski on my fast skis frequently enough to require them to be stone ground, which is one of the reasons I don't ski on them frequently, is because they're "fast" skis. If I had to grind my skis every 20 days, I'd NEVER get to ski on them, as it would take way too long to get them fast again. My race skis will never see a stone, but a stone can be controlled to the type of texture that is in the base. A good shop will ask you what you expect and what your intentions are with the ski, type of snow (or ice in the Poconos) you plan on skiing. This is one of the reasons I got rid of my Montana, it could get a flat base but had no fine tuning controls. Besides, I should have been clearer belt vs. stone grind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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