RACEWAXdotCOM
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Posts posted by RACEWAXdotCOM
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could we get that same deal for cyber monday? i totally missed it!
Sure, but you'll have to send me a message for the additional discount. Cyber Monday will be a 15% off sale. Use CYBER15 for the coupon code in the shopping cart and take the 15%, then email me with your name and order number and I will give you another 5% as a refund. This applies to anyone that reads this and makes a purchase on Cyber Monday.
Thanks!
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thanks for stopping back
I feel guilty only coming back to post a sale notice but I hope you know you can write me directly anytime. This was such a good deal I wanted you all to know. Hope you had a great holiday!
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anyone?
Black Friday coupon code for 20% off at http://racewax.com is BLACK20 stock up on ski wax snowboard wax, tuning tools and kits, Friday only.
Enjoy!
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All waxes are marked down 50% and you get free shipping over $75 at www.racewax.com
Use the 10% off code 10PMM in the checkout cart to get more off.
Thanks & have a great summer,
Marc
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RaceWax.com is having a clearance sale.
Use that code in the shopping cart to get a 10% discount.
Send me a PM if you would like additional discount codes (expiring on various dates this month) of 16%, 25%, or 33% depending on the cart total. Many of our items are already discounted up to 20% so they will add up to bigger savings!
Thanks all for a great season!
Marc
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I don't drive.
I take a bus to JF daily. I can't haul the board on the bus.
I keep my snowboard in a locker at JF and I don't have any good work space for
working on the board at JF.
This sort of bothers me once in a while but I figure they have people who do this
for a living so why not support their income.
So I paid the ski shop techs for the last 2 years to wax the board once a week.
Since I go daily week days I've never seen much of a press for the ski shop techs to be
stacking wax jobs back to back all day long.
This is not the case at all at JF.
I always TIP the techs and they don't go home until the day is over so saying they do sloppier quick jobs would probably offend them.
MY question in this thread was asking about waxes verses teflon fluoropolymer oil.
I rub down the board with ZARDOZ NOTWAX every day before going out for 3 hours
and found it very helpful to shoot flats and craters and cut out "snowgrab" when the snow is warm.
IF there is such a wax that produces as much slip I'd like to use it when I run out of teflon oil.
1) Please read my tuning tips pages, especially the Structure Theory page and that will help with the suction discussion.
2) Regarding too much wax, a simple solution is to buy a nylon brush and after you get it from the tech you tipped, brush it. If wax still comes up, then the board wasn't really done. You have to get that wax off or the snow will grab it.
3) My wax is better than Zardoz but you will never get a tech to use it and you can't use it without an iron. Furthermore, the word I heard on Zardoz is that repeated use clogs up your base.
Seriously, For under $10 you can get a Maxx Waxx can, a polishing/buffing cloth (RC-2360) and keep that in your locker. When you get there rub some on, let it sit, get your boots on, then before you go our buff it on well with the cloth, a final brushing would be good but not critical because the excess will wear off quick. You won't have to bring it into the shop as often and it is cheaper than Zardoz.
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OK Mr wizard.... then this question is for you....
I have been using ZARDOZ NOTWAX instead of waxing with block wax on my snowboard.
At the end of the season when the snow gets sticky I found regular wax done by the pros
in the ski shop really did nothing for the sticky snow. But slather on notwax oil and away we go.
Zardos makes wipes or a felt pad applicator that you drip some of this zardoz oil on and apply to skis or a snowboard.
Its something like $15 for a tiny bottle. A bottle can last a week.
So whats the science behind this stuff compared to using YOUR waxes?
I'm always up for trying something better but so far what I have found is that a waxed board
will stick to the snow in flat spots and craters where a zardoz oiled snowboard will shoot the flats
and pop right out of a crater.
The wax is not stopping you because of chemistry. Either you have too much wax and the snow is digging into it or in wet snow the lack of structure in the base is hurting you because of the suction effect.
Certainly high fluoro waxes help this and my waxes are high fluoro, but it seems that you want quick easy application. I would suggest a fluoro paste that I sell (MAXX WAXX) for $6.99 and a synthetic cloth to apply it. All of this is on sale at 20% off now.
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I forget, how much is the forum discount? I plowed through a lot of posts and couldn't find it (probably an operator problem, but maybe it's time to repost it anyway).
Well the old codes won't work anymore even if you did find them because it is a new company I am working through. The good news is that the old discount was a few percent and I plan to increase it. The better (and most important news) is that the sale I have now at 20% will never be bigger - this is it through the season as far as big discounts go - so stock up before Dec 2, after that any discount will be much less.
I will need to learn the new system before I set up a forum discount and it might be a couple of weeks.
Happy Thanksgiving all!
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I have a monster sale going on to celebrate my new website. Sorry I have been away, but if you see the site you will know why... tons of work!
Check it out at RaceWax.com
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I am running an unadvertised special this week. Everything in the store is 10% off. This is the biggest discount I have ever listed. Use MAY10 in the PROMO CODE box at checkout. It will be announced at the end of the week to everyone on the site and is good all month. Some things are in short supply though so I am giving you an advance notice.
In addition if you are from PA, I will refund any tax you pay on purchases through May.
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Congratulations and thanks!
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Yeah well I flew off a jump once, clipped a tree with my shins. They were so mangled that Ski Patrol just hacked them off with a Swiss Army knife. Then, since I was riding my bike home, they duck-taped a ski pole to each leg and then taped the ends to the pedals so I could make it back. The worst part was I totally forgot to get my boots. I eventually saw them on eBay, but got out bid at the last second and never saw them again.
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I am trying to sharpen my edges on my skis. Does anyone have the Burton tool? I am assuming the edges on snowboards are no different then skis? Also, on it the have the degrees of the edges something like 90-95. What does this mean? and what is the difference of that and bevel? What degree should I set this at? Thanks
The bevel is the angle. Try this link on edge tuning to learn more.
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Thanks for the tips everyone. I didn't get to work on them since my first attempt...I'm gonna spend some time this weekend figuring it out. I'll let you know how I make out.
In my kit I got a large red edge stone and a small grey gummi. It sounds like the gummi is for deburring or detuning the edges. What exactly is the edge stone for...how/when do I use it?
I think it has a 240 grit so it is more of a handy thing that you use to take out rough spots before sharpening. You don't need it routinely.
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Great advice. I still use a sharpie when I'm setting up new skis. I'd add that you should see metal filings being removed about the width of hair. Many skis come from the manufacturer with a base and edge bevel already set----just like they come factory waxed. To sharpen the edges of some skis, you have to remove sidewall material or your file doesn't reach the metal. For this, you need a sidewall planer. My Nordica rock skis need sidewall planing and I was going to ask Dr. D if he happened to carry them...
I have 2 kinds: square blade and round. Read about the relative benefits by clicking here.
Round:
Square:
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how about my general issues with edging? is the lack of sharpness due to the 90 deg angle?
Are you sure that the file was hitting metal? Your ski may already have a bevel and the file wasn't touching at 0 deg. Take a sharpie and blacken the edges. Start at 0, then 0.5, upping the angle by 0.5 until you hit metal and remove the black. Then you are at that angle. Make a note with your sharpie on the ski where your foot goes so you remember next time. Then test the side angle the same way and note the angle. Put the diamond in to smooth it a bit at the angles you just set. Use these angles on your other ski. 1 deg base and 1.5 - 2 deg side is good for this area. Next time you sharpen only use the diamond on the side edge, then run the gummi down the edge like in this picture - lightly - no pressure!
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shout out to dr D!
alright, for a family with 5 sets of skis and 1 board i figured its about time i start doing some basic tuning and waxing. between last spring and now i have aquired a basic tune kit, iron and vises from closeouts/sac/the bay...now all i need is some wax! what do you recommend dr d to get me started - rec skiers with 3 of us being hack nastar regulars, thanks!
I would get 3 bars of red/warm hydro (SKU# 603), 2 bars of universal hydro (#221), and one large bar of universal fluoro (#220)
On the 3 bars of red I have a promo deal on this week only:
Buy 2 bars of red hydrocarbon wax and get the third one free! Buy SKU #603 and enter the promo code below at checkout.
USE PROMO CODE: HW0702
You should sign up for my newsletter, I am putting special deals on there twice per month.
Thanks,
Marc
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Dr. D,
It looks like the ski man hobby vise isn't on your site anymore...what happened? do you still have it for the everything kit? i hope to purchase this tonight. if you put in a different vise, is it an upgrade or a downgrade?
I took it down as a single item until Monday because I wanted to save them for the everything kit. I only have 6 left, but I get 50 more on Monday.
You can order your kit if you like; I suggest you do now though it has been selling well.
Thanks for asking,
Marc
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One of their customers says he recycled their velvet bag they shipping everything in by nailing it to the wall next to his bed as a condom holder. Gotta love that.
Ski,
Even though they do make note of the whole pollutants in watershed thing, articles I've read on Purl spend more time describing the manufacturing process than to the actual residual effects of wax on snow. This is where they argue that most of the environmental damage happens. They make a little light of this in their second point in this particular paragraph.
Knowing the manufacturing process of our goods is pretty interesting and I would be interested in knowing more about it. On newschoolers today Line Skis posted a big update about their company mission, something about being the best and most progressive freeride/freestyle company. Someone responded by saying someting along the lines of "You'd be the most progressive if you brought production back to the states, stopped using materials illegal in the States, and paid fare wages. You're argument for shipping production overseas was cost, but I didn't see prices go down at all as a result. In fact, they went up!"
Even though the whole outsourcing debate is hot in that comment, the part about using materials illegal in the states caught my eye. I wonder what is going into their skis.... (and other companies for that matter) I'm visiting China in late February, I'm really hoping to study more about manufacturing there after the whole toy and lead paint debacle, as well as these recent concerns in the ski industry.
I'm not totally green but I do have a shade of green. The fluoros I use (most not all) are actually made from recycled teflon that is subjected to a non-chemical physical process to transform them. So no chemical by-products and we are re-using already-made materials. These fluoros are totally inert and pose no danger to the environment off your ski base. I don't buy any arguments that ski wax hurts the mountain environment.
I try to use minimal paper by being Internet only. I recycle packing materials. I use old 35-mm film cans for my powder containers, and I use minimal packaging.
We try to be environmentally friendly while still making good products.
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Otherwise, does that everything - deluxe kit cover all the equipment i need to get the job done?
Thanks for the help btw. I like to know everything detail when I make a big purchase (or in this case, when a big purchase is made for me).
You can get by with one brush in the beginning and add another if you like next time you need to reload on wax.
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regarding beveled edges what do most of you riders and skiers tune ur edges to... like how many degress
There is a lot of info on this page for edge tuning.
I do a very simple routine and my edges are always sharp to carve the ice on the PA slopes. After setting my angles (I have a 1 deg base and 2 deg side) I take the file out and put it away for the season, then I put in a blue DMT diamond stone and use that once per week only on the side edge. Then run a gummi stone lightly (no pressure) at 45 deg. Simple & always sharp!
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Hear are my results from the nastar nationals. Me and mike are about the same hight and weight. and we were both using simluar boards. We also spent a good amount of time free riding together and we are every close to equal in skill and ablilatly to read the snow, if anything he was slightly better at free riding. The biggest diffrence was I was using Dr.D's cheep stuff and he was using the High end podium wax. The differance was EXTREAMLY noticable.
Fridays races
Male 17-20
Snowboard / Telemark / Disabled
Mark DiGiovanni Norristown, PA Bear Creek Green 26.23 72.00 S*
Mike Palombi Washington, IL Boyne Highlands Green 27.60 80.98 S*
Saterday
Male 17-20
Snowboard / Telemark / Disabled
Mark DiGiovanni Norristown, PA Bear Creek Green 26.95 57.33 S*
Mike Palombi Washington, IL Boyne Highlands Green 29.55 72.50 S*
Thank you Dr. D for everything. I couldn't of been able to win with out you.
Results that make you happy is what it is all about - great job!
I'll post this one in my testimonials!
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Believe me, by day's end, I can FEEL the structure with my fingers, there's no wax in it. And this is in spite of the fact that I just iron the wax on, I don't scrape. I was running my fingers over the base of the ski this afternoon in the locker room and I could feel where there was this drag on the base. Right under the foot close to the edges especially. The structure is definitely well scraped out by the ice crystals of the first run. I'll try your all temp wax and maybe ask for some of that $3 stuff as well. Order coming shortly.
Is this the right link to the wax you mean?
Last year I used to wax weekly, this year with uni hydro and uni fluoro, I found it was much more durable and go longer between waxings. You will need to scrape/brush all the hydro off before adding the fluoro otherwise none of it will be in the base.
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I have a new universal all temp wax that can handle this.
Keep in mind that the suction effect of excess water is slowing you in the warm temps. In this case you need the base structure to be free of wax to let the water be moved away. So, scraping and brushing and open structure are at least as important as the wax.
The yellow hydro was something I only made for the Will Ferrell movie; I don't sell it because the red is just as good.
Forum Wax & Tool Discounts
in Gear
Posted
Hey somehow the forum discount code got deleted - it has been reactivated now - 10% off your order! If you don't know the code write to me. You must include your forum member userid in the request.
Thanks!
Marc