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RACEWAXdotCOM

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Posts posted by RACEWAXdotCOM

  1. Finals didn't go all that well for me, but next weekend I should be heading up to High school championships at Cannon NH. At the very least I hope to get some good points there :)

     

    Good luck Dude!

     

    Could you do me a favor and save a brochure for me? I paid to help sponsor the Cannon race and have not heard a word from them since I paid. I want to make sure my ad appears in the brochure or whatever they hand out.

     

     

    BTW, two of the top 10 guys in the PA cup use my hybrid wax.

  2. how do you rub on 8-10 grams of it?!

     

    To clarify, I use about 4 grams per ski and the method described above is good. I do it slightly different. I crayon with the wax as is a thin coat then I go back over it with softened wax (it takes literally 1 second to soften it so don't over do it) to get it on thicker. I like this way because the first coat ensures 100 % coverage and I don't have to be so perfect in the second crayon pass with the softened wax. I get good coverage but use less wax.

  3. Hey, Dr. D., I should have added that I was doing what we used to call a 'push job'---I didn't have much time and wanted as deep a coating as I could get, especially since I wasn't bringing warm-up skis. I assumed that as long as I didn't let it smoke, then I could heat it up. I repeated the same steps for a race yesterday with similar results, so I'm not changing a thing when we have these conditions. As to letting them cool, I left them on the vice for about an hour, then put them in my three-season room (about 40 degrees) for about three hours before scraping.

     

    I've always found cold waxes a pain in the butt. That's the one good thing about global warming---soft waxes are easier and doing touch ups between runs isn't a hassle. Eh, for me anyway.

    ~cole

     

    I'm going to post this in my testimonials. If you have a racing picture that you don't mind me posting with it, that would be great. I am trying to spruce it up a bit with pictures.

     

    Regarding the wax ironing. My waxes are meant to be ironed, its just that they don't drip, they get pasty when melted, so you have to crayon first.

  4. Applying this 'cold' wax is very different than warmer waxes. It just doesn't want to melt. And it applies with an almost gritty texture. It seemed harder than either Toko or Swix. At normal iron settings it just kind of globbed onto the iron. So after coating the bases, I set my skis in a cold room for four hours, then scraped. It took about twice the usual effort to scrape. I followed this up with a quick brass, then nylon and horsehair brushing.

     

    My wax is not meant to be dripped on. Rub or crayon it in, then iron. I do one quick crayon, then a second crayon but touch the wax to the iron for a fraction of a second to soften it; this way I get a thicker coat. Then I iron.

     

    I would not put skis immediately in the cold. Let them cool slowly then when at room temp put them in the cold if you like.

     

    Thanks for the kind words. Who are you? I don't know what name you are on the results list.

  5. Got my wax Friday. I took a break Sat around lunchtime and put on some cheap warm wax and did the scrape and polish thing and then put on the Dr. D sample.

     

    Had to warm it with the iron a little to get it to spread. I didn't put too much down as I usually just drip wax on so I really didn't put too much on. (I barely used an 1/8th of the bar.) I ironed it in with a bare iron moving fast, since I don't have any fiberlene stuff, and then let my sticks sit for a while. Scraped and polished and then took the sticks out for a few runs.

     

    The stuff was FAST!! At least as fast as the swix CH 10 stuff with some F4 polished in. I bet if I topped it with some F4, or some other glide wax this stuff would be phenomenal.

     

    The only thing was that after a few runs I could tell it was wearing off. Still for as thin a layer I put on it held up pretty well. I should have put more on but it was my first time using the crayon method. Next time I'm going to really paste the stuff on instead of taking it easy.

     

    Next weekend I'm going to do up the sticks right and really test it out. So far I'm pretty impressed. Props to the Doc!!!!!!

     

    Well, as you guessed you didn't use enough and that may have contributed to the loss of speed with time. You used about 2 grams (your bar was about 20 grams) and I use about 8-10 grams. I found the opposite on the durability. Last year I would wax weekly, this year I was still flying on my second week (about 6 days).

     

    I think putting F4 over my stuff will slow it down.

  6. temperatures reached mid 20's today, so I used swix universal warm as my base coat, then crayoned on your T-series that was like 20-28deg and ironed that in. It seemed resonably hard when i scraped it off, so i figured it would've been hard enough for the new snow...should i have gone to a harder wax?

     

    If you look at the wax charts everything shifts up with new snow. The T2 was a better choice. If you are unsure - wax colder - my waxes will do well even if it warms up, but a warmer one won't always do well in the colder/harsher snow.

  7. Hell yea, there wasn't an ounce of wax left in my structure. I even brushed right before my race run too. The snow was just REALLY sticky, I was just wondering what type would be best for that really sticky fresh blown snow.

     

    Tell me exaclty what wax you used and the temperatures and anything else you know.

  8. http://www.paracing.org/mambo/index.php?op...13&Itemid=4

     

    They'll be available there when they post them...

     

    BTW, first time racing on your wax today...REALLY nice, but JF has soooo slow blown snow...out of the stuff you sent me, which would be best for that really sticky man made stuff?

     

    I didn't have any trouble at Liberty with my all temp fluoro in blown snow. Do you scrap/brush real well?

     

     

    Try www.live-timing.com

     

    Some mountains put up the results faster than PARA.

     

    Outstanding link! Thanks!

  9. my dakine tune up kit came wiht something like a scotch brite pad

    would this be used in place of a brush

     

    A white scotch brite pad is ok, the others are on the abrasive side. A brush will get into the ski base structure better than a pad, so if you see a good buy one day grab it.

     

    toast and youngblood wax ships Friday - thanks!

  10. Hey doc, can you let me know what i would need to set myself up to do my own tunes and put a package together - just the basics - no bells and whistles?

     

    First off, thanks for the invite to meet you guys, maybe someday, but for now I am stuck in the waxroom.

     

    All you need to tune is a kit, brush and iron (a vise is handy but people get by without it).

     

    My kits are all high quality and thoughtfully put together by me to make sure it has everything you need. The Deluxe has a better edger (more angles) and a diamond stone; the basic has no diamond and the edger will do the job.

     

    A nylon brush will handle most of what you need to do.

     

    My white iron at $33 is a great buy, it is the same as the $50 Swix iron.

     

    For about $100, you get all you need and it will last forever.

     

    DrD

  11. I got this from a customer today:

     

    Dr. D. -

     

    The all temp fluromax was EXCELLENT. My brother and I each felt superior glide as soon as we stepped-in -- soon found that it was bullet fast on all conditions. Can't wait to try some of your more advanced formulas. Many thanks for a great product and enhancing our trip.

     

    Nick

     

    p.s. when your company blows out swix and the other wax "big wigs", make sure to keep your packaging concept - The bag and label are just plain tough.

  12. Let's do one per person please.

     

    I'm not making money on this so I prefer not to lose even more in PayPal fees; mail it please.

     

    You don't need paper, just crayon it on; you can soften the bar with an iron if you want it thicker or its not rubbing on well.

     

    It's about 10 grams per set of skis, I can do it with less, but some might use more.

     

    I had this wax on in blowing snow on Sunday and it was too fast for me.

  13. I am only making this offer here and it is for a limited time (I will say "when" in this thread).

     

    If you send me $3 (check or cash at your own risk) I will send you a 20-25 gram sample bar of my all temp, high fluoro wax. This wax is $12 + shipping for 40g in my store. I have been having a lot of fun on this wax and I think you will to, so I want you to try it. This bar will do 2 ski waxings

     

    How to use:

    Clean base

    Wax/scrape/brush with a hydro wax

    RUB ON my fluoro wax

    Iron

    Scrape

    Brush

    Hit the snow!

     

    I hope you try it. Let me know how you like it.

     

    racewax.com, LLC

    PO Box 541

    Waynesboro, PA 17268

  14. How can I learn to wax/tune my own skis?

     

    It's not hard, you'll save lots of money, enjoy the snow more, and the tools you buy will last for years so after the initial investment it ends up costing you a few bucks per year.

     

    The basics are cleaning, doing the edges, waxing, scraping, brushing. My racewax.com site has lots of pictures and instructions, most are geared to racing, but if you just do these basics, you're good to go.

     

    You can write me or call me. 9 PM is a good time to chat and I will be happy to come up with a package that meets your needs at a good price.

     

    Marc (DrD)

  15. i'm thinking about buying THIS one from you. Will that iron be good for home waxing of snowboards? How many snowboard waxes will that 40g bar of all temp wax last? ...would u be willing to throw in a scraper and some more wax for alittle more for a fellow PASR member...

     

    My scrapers are high-quality and not plastic cheapo's and consequently I sell them at near cost, so Ican't do that, but I will give you 150g bar of wax instead of 40g.

     

    I get a lot of orders, so you have to make sure you add a note, or follow up with a note to make sure I know it is you.

     

    This offer stands for any other PASR member -- if you tell me, I will up the wax to 150g.

     

    Thanks!

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