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Best tune-up?


Timeless

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Any opinions on the best place to have my board prep'd for the new season. It's gonna need some small(ish) scratches taken out of the base (ice / mud / rocks at Killington late in the season :( ), and the edges touched up :) .

 

I'm local to camelback but don't mind travelling if it needed to make sure it's done well.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Also, for the boarders out there, what bindings do you use and how do you rate them? I currently have some low(ish) spec Sims (seditions) which are comfy (nice straps) but probably a bit flexible (being plastic). I'm thinking of trading up to Drakes :drool or Technines, any other suggestions?

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everyone i know who had drakes didnt like them. they look sweet and are light as hell, but they have so many freaking screws and bolts in them. like in spots that dould just be solid construction they put a bolt. my friends where constantly loseing bolts and haveing to get new ones mid day.

i love my burtons, and i swear by them. they aren't cheap, but they seem to last.

 

as for tuneing. i always get mine done up at blue cause i know a kid that works there, and he really spends time makeing sure mine is perfect. Nestors does and alright job and so does army/navy.

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yea dude definetely go with the technines. technine also has a lifetime warranty so if you ride park a lot or just beat on them a lot and something breaks, u get a brand new pair.

 

for the waxing i would suggest to try to learn to do it yourself. its actually really easy and all u need is any old iron, wax, and a scraper. it ends up becoming a lot cheaper in the longrun. just go onto google and look up how to do it. its really easy. and if those scratches on our board are just little small ones, the wax should just buff them out and ull be good

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yea dude definetely go with the technines.  technine also has a lifetime warranty so if you ride park a lot or just beat on them a lot and something breaks,  u get a brand new pair. 

 

for the waxing i would suggest to try to learn to do it yourself.  its actually really easy and all u need is any old iron, wax, and a scraper.  it ends up becoming a lot cheaper in the longrun.  just go onto google and look up how to do it.  its really easy.  and if those scratches on our board are just little small ones, the wax should just buff them out and ull be good

 

I read somewhere that wax is like hand moistureizer...you want it IN your hands, but not ON it. You rub it in, but you don't want globs of white crap on your hands. Its sounds counter productive, to put the wax on, and scrape it off, and keep brushing until its all off, but it works. And plus, those "mini scratches" are good, cause a perfectly smooth base isnt fast. Thats why people, including myself have a "structure" in their base. :D

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I read somewhere that wax is like hand moistureizer...you want it IN your hands, but not ON it.  You rub it in, but you don't want globs of white crap on your hands.  Its sounds counter productive, to put the wax on, and scrape it off, and keep brushing until its all off, but it works.  And plus, those "mini scratches" are good, cause a perfectly smooth base isnt fast.  Thats why people, including myself have a "structure" in their base.  :D

 

Yeah, I did the waxing last year (as it came looking decidely unwaxed from M3), and it's kind of wierd scraping it all back off again but the end result with the scrubbing pad was easy to acheive.

 

The lack of extra wax on the base means that the scratches aren't likely to come out though and may need a little repair work, as CB's shop has been mentioned, I'll drop it in when I pick up my pass. I'd like the edges sharpened up anyway.

 

Technines sound like a good option, I can get the toe cap/strap as well then... anyone tried that yet?

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Board and ski bases are a lot like sponges. It may seem like you're scraping all the wax off, but it's the wax that gets into the pores of the base that keep your board healthy. An unwaxed board will get a powdery residue, which is the actually base flaking off.

 

If you don't want the hot wax hassle, you can use the cork method. Buy from a shop, or even just use a champagne cork---it's all the same. Take your wax and draw loops and circles all over the base (also known as crayoning). Then rub the cork on it until it works into the base. The friction of the cork heat up the wax. Then scrape it off with a plexiglass or plastic scraper. You can use a nylon or horsehair brush to get more out, if you want.

 

Corking doesn't work as good as hot wax, since it doesn't get it as deep. But it's still 1000x better than nothing.

 

How often should you wax? Well, think of it this way: a day of skiing and riding is the equivalent of driving your car 3000 miles.

 

As for sharpening bases and edges, you should get a stone grind and base sharpening at the beginning of each season. Edge sharpening is done as needed through the season. You can pick up a "multi-tuner" for $30 and never have to waste another dime in a shop.

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