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Hey somehow the forum discount code got deleted - it has been reactivated now - 10% off your order! If you don't know the code write to me. You must include your forum member userid in the request.

Dr. D is the man! He hooked me up with some nice stuff for cheap. I really like his all temp wax!

 

How can I learn to wax/tune my own skis?

search it online, read dr. d's site...try it on old skis. Its not that hard once you do it

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How can I learn to wax/tune my own skis?

 

It's not hard, you'll save lots of money, enjoy the snow more, and the tools you buy will last for years so after the initial investment it ends up costing you a few bucks per year.

 

The basics are cleaning, doing the edges, waxing, scraping, brushing. My racewax.com site has lots of pictures and instructions, most are geared to racing, but if you just do these basics, you're good to go.

 

You can write me or call me. 9 PM is a good time to chat and I will be happy to come up with a package that meets your needs at a good price.

 

Marc (DrD)

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I forget, how much is the forum discount? I plowed through a lot of posts and couldn't find it (probably an operator problem, but maybe it's time to repost it anyway).

 

Well the old codes won't work anymore even if you did find them because it is a new company I am working through. The good news is that the old discount was a few percent and I plan to increase it. The better (and most important news) is that the sale I have now at 20% will never be bigger - this is it through the season as far as big discounts go - so stock up before Dec 2, after that any discount will be much less.

 

I will need to learn the new system before I set up a forum discount and it might be a couple of weeks.

 

Happy Thanksgiving all!

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Oh, and I should point out, the waxes are all my formulations. I am a chemist by profession.

 

OK Mr wizard.... then this question is for you....

 

I have been using ZARDOZ NOTWAX instead of waxing with block wax on my snowboard.

At the end of the season when the snow gets sticky I found regular wax done by the pros

in the ski shop really did nothing for the sticky snow. But slather on notwax oil and away we go.

Zardos makes wipes or a felt pad applicator that you drip some of this zardoz oil on and apply to skis or a snowboard.

Its something like $15 for a tiny bottle. A bottle can last a week.

 

So whats the science behind this stuff compared to using YOUR waxes?

I'm always up for trying something better but so far what I have found is that a waxed board

will stick to the snow in flat spots and craters where a zardoz oiled snowboard will shoot the flats

and pop right out of a crater. Its made a big difference for me to the point where I don't have to

stop and unstrap and walk out of the crater or walk a flat spot.

On the downhill side of this logic is how sticking snowboards burn out knees and shins

but not when I use zardoz. I slide..and fast.. and no knee burn from a grabby board.

 

I've been told that zardoz, being an oil, just wipes off the board after a few runs but

my experience has been 3 hours of slide time before sticking so maybe I got lucky.

 

zardoz is made of flouropolymer oil ..... DUPONT KRYTOX R901.

This KRYTOX is food grade teflon lube used in food processing machinery.

I'm not sure but I think you can eat it and not be poisoned.

http://www.zardoznotwax.com/grx/sci.jpg

 

I can't find ANY consumer source for this stuff and there is only one other product on the planet you

can buy that contains KRYTOX oil and that is Finish Line Stanchion Fluoro Oil Bike Lube.

 

Yep. Bike oil.

 

And I really do think it is the same stuff.

The zardoz plastic bottle and the Finish Line plastic bottle looks

the same, the oil feels the same, the slick ride is the same.

It looks like the same product but with different labels stuck to the bottle and packaging.

 

BUT the bike lube is $5 cheaper and available everywhere while the ZARDOZ is only sold in

ski shops and real limited stock.

 

So what I want from you... the chemist ... is to tell me what wax or oil I can use that is as slick as this fluoropolymer oil when I run out of this stuff.

If I could I would buy a gallon jug of KRYTOX R901 but its not a consumer retail product I can find

and at $10 for 15 grams it looks like a gallon could cost $1,280.

 

 

From AMAZON for $10

Finish Line Stanchion Fluoro Oil Bike Lube - 15g Bottle - S10000101

Stanchion Fluoro Oil is a pure DuPont liquid fluoropolymer oil.

It is a surface treatment that is distinctly different and better than solid fluoropolymers like PTFE .

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OK Mr wizard.... then this question is for you....

 

I have been using ZARDOZ NOTWAX instead of waxing with block wax on my snowboard.

At the end of the season when the snow gets sticky I found regular wax done by the pros

in the ski shop really did nothing for the sticky snow. But slather on notwax oil and away we go.

Zardos makes wipes or a felt pad applicator that you drip some of this zardoz oil on and apply to skis or a snowboard.

Its something like $15 for a tiny bottle. A bottle can last a week.

 

So whats the science behind this stuff compared to using YOUR waxes?

I'm always up for trying something better but so far what I have found is that a waxed board

will stick to the snow in flat spots and craters where a zardoz oiled snowboard will shoot the flats

and pop right out of a crater.

 

The wax is not stopping you because of chemistry. Either you have too much wax and the snow is digging into it or in wet snow the lack of structure in the base is hurting you because of the suction effect.

 

Certainly high fluoro waxes help this and my waxes are high fluoro, but it seems that you want quick easy application. I would suggest a fluoro paste that I sell (MAXX WAXX) for $6.99 and a synthetic cloth to apply it. All of this is on sale at 20% off now.

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The wax is not stopping you because of chemistry. Either you have too much wax and the snow is digging into it or in wet snow the lack of structure in the base is hurting you because of the suction effect.

 

Certainly high fluoro waxes help this and my waxes are high fluoro, but it seems that you want quick easy application. I would suggest a fluoro paste that I sell (MAXX WAXX) for $6.99 and a synthetic cloth to apply it. All of this is on sale at 20% off now.

 

I'm not looking for quick easy application.

That just turned out to be how zardoz worked. Just wipe it on before riding.

What I am looking for is a wax that slides as well as oil.

 

When you say

Either you have too much wax or lack of structure .....

HOW is this something I can cure to get the same slippery ride I get with zardoz oil.... using a wax?

 

I don't have a lot of control over the waxing of the board.

I hand it in to the ski shop at JF and they give it back all tuned up.

Most of the people who do wax jobs have been doing it for years so I'd have to believe they know what they are doing.

If I wanted them to use a different wax I figure they would take it.

But still....

when you say I might have too much wax....

they scrape the board and I don't think there's too much wax.

And lack of structure?

How can that be measured... and cured... if that causes suction?

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I don't have a lot of control over the waxing of the board.

I hand it in to the ski shop at JF and they give it back all tuned up.

Most of the people who do wax jobs have been doing it for years so I'd have to believe they know what they are doing.

If I wanted them to use a different wax I figure they would take it.

im gonna have to disagree with you here robert, i'd much rather wax my own board, then have someone who has been doing it professionally for years do it. for one, its my stuff, i paid for it, i care about it, i'll take my time doing it and do a good job. the dude at the shop is getting paid to do it no matter how good the job is, and the more boards he gets done in less time, the sooner he gets to go home. translating into a sloppier, quick job on your board.

 

 

im pretty sure i do a far better job myself, and a lot cheaper too.

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im gonna have to disagree with you here robert, i'd much rather wax my own board, then have someone who has been doing it professionally for years do it. for one, its my stuff, i paid for it, i care about it, i'll take my time doing it and do a good job. the dude at the shop is getting paid to do it no matter how good the job is, and the more boards he gets done in less time, the sooner he gets to go home. translating into a sloppier, quick job on your board.

 

 

im pretty sure i do a far better job myself, and a lot cheaper too.

 

x2

 

Tuning your own stuff is fun and rewarding. And plus, you can do it for much cheaper, and can do it more often. I tune my skis after every use, and everytime I go out, the skis glide extremely well and grip on the hard stuff...:)

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I don't drive.

I take a bus to JF daily. I can't haul the board on the bus.

I keep my snowboard in a locker at JF and I don't have any good work space for

working on the board at JF.

This sort of bothers me once in a while but I figure they have people who do this

for a living so why not support their income.

So I paid the ski shop techs for the last 2 years to wax the board once a week.

Since I go daily week days I've never seen much of a press for the ski shop techs to be

stacking wax jobs back to back all day long.

The dude at the shop is getting paid to do it no matter how good the job is, and the more boards he gets done in less time, the sooner he gets to go home. translating into a sloppier, quick job on your board.

This is not the case at all at JF.

I always TIP the techs and they don't go home until the day is over so saying they do sloppier quick jobs would probably offend them.

 

MY question in this thread was asking about waxes verses teflon fluoropolymer oil.

I rub down the board with ZARDOZ NOTWAX every day before going out for 3 hours

and found it very helpful to shoot flats and craters and cut out "snowgrab" when the snow is warm.

IF there is such a wax that produces as much slip I'd like to use it when I run out of teflon oil.

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I don't drive.

I take a bus to JF daily. I can't haul the board on the bus.

I keep my snowboard in a locker at JF and I don't have any good work space for

working on the board at JF.

This sort of bothers me once in a while but I figure they have people who do this

for a living so why not support their income.

So I paid the ski shop techs for the last 2 years to wax the board once a week.

Since I go daily week days I've never seen much of a press for the ski shop techs to be

stacking wax jobs back to back all day long.

 

This is not the case at all at JF.

I always TIP the techs and they don't go home until the day is over so saying they do sloppier quick jobs would probably offend them.

 

MY question in this thread was asking about waxes verses teflon fluoropolymer oil.

I rub down the board with ZARDOZ NOTWAX every day before going out for 3 hours

and found it very helpful to shoot flats and craters and cut out "snowgrab" when the snow is warm.

IF there is such a wax that produces as much slip I'd like to use it when I run out of teflon oil.

 

1) Please read my tuning tips pages, especially the Structure Theory page and that will help with the suction discussion.

 

2) Regarding too much wax, a simple solution is to buy a nylon brush and after you get it from the tech you tipped, brush it. If wax still comes up, then the board wasn't really done. You have to get that wax off or the snow will grab it.

 

3) My wax is better than Zardoz but you will never get a tech to use it and you can't use it without an iron. Furthermore, the word I heard on Zardoz is that repeated use clogs up your base.

 

Seriously, For under $10 you can get a Maxx Waxx can, a polishing/buffing cloth (RC-2360) and keep that in your locker. When you get there rub some on, let it sit, get your boots on, then before you go our buff it on well with the cloth, a final brushing would be good but not critical because the excess will wear off quick. You won't have to bring it into the shop as often and it is cheaper than Zardoz.

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It really sounds like maybe there is LITTLE TO NO structure or they are not brushing after waxing. If it's the latter, a run down the mountain usually cures that except in wet conditions. If you've never asked them to structure your board, I can guarantee they haven't done it. After a while any factory structure is worn down either due to use or to heat from the waxing iron. I ski about sixty days a year and get my structure done once a year. YMMV.

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1) Please read my tuning tips pages, especially the Structure Theory page and that will help with the suction discussion.

 

Got a link? I found very little about structure on racewax.com

Maybe I missed something.

 

2) Regarding too much wax, a simple solution is to buy a nylon brush and after you get it from the tech you tipped, brush it.

Do you sell this nylon brush?

 

3) My wax is better than Zardoz but you will never get a tech to use it and you can't use it without an iron.

Why wouldn't a tech use your wax?

 

 

 

Furthermore, the word I heard on Zardoz is that repeated use clogs up your base.

Maybe.... but then if the ski shop tech is stripping and waxing the board once a week then

perhaps clogging isn't an issue.

 

 

 

 

Seriously, For under $10 you can get a Maxx Waxx can, a polishing/buffing cloth (RC-2360) and keep

 

I've used MAxx Waxx when I ran out of zardoz.

Given one over the other I'd rather oil the board.

 

I was looking to find a wax that was a real wax, a tech can use it wax, not a daily rub down wax.

If there really isn't anything more slippery than zardoz then I'll keep using oil.

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Got a link? I found very little about structure on racewax.com

Maybe I missed something.

 

 

Do you sell this nylon brush?

 

 

Why wouldn't a tech use your wax?

 

www.google.com, www.yahoo.com, www.altavista.com, www.use-a-search-engine.com

 

Yes he sells a variety of nylon brushes. I'm sure he would be glad to recommend a specific one for your "needs."

 

The oil you keep talking about is simply an overlay. After a few runs any rub, drip, or spray-on overlay is going to be gone.

 

His wax is used by folks with far more credibility and experience than your average techs. Many techs just hot wax with what the shop orders in bulk for their full tunes, usually some type of all-purpose base prep.

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  • 2 months later...
Well the old codes won't work anymore even if you did find them because it is a new company I am working through. The good news is that the old discount was a few percent and I plan to increase it. The better (and most important news) is that the sale I have now at 20% will never be bigger - this is it through the season as far as big discounts go - so stock up before Dec 2, after that any discount will be much less.

 

I will need to learn the new system before I set up a forum discount and it might be a couple of weeks.

 

Happy Thanksgiving all!

So, the sale is over by now and of course my wax is running low. Are the discounts working again? I'd go look on Epic, but they're down with a database move.
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  • 1 month later...

RaceWax.com is having a clearance sale.

 

Follow this link for a view of sale items and note there is a discount coupon code 10PMM listed there.

 

Use that code in the shopping cart to get a 10% discount.

 

Send me a PM if you would like additional discount codes (expiring on various dates this month) of 16%, 25%, or 33% depending on the cart total. Many of our items are already discounted up to 20% so they will add up to bigger savings!

 

Thanks all for a great season!

 

Marc

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